The Night Watchman

Standing with the Night Watchman

When you come to Rothenbrg ob der Tauber, the one must do is take the Night Watchman walking tour.  Hans-Georg Baumgartner has been doing this tour for many years and it is an hour filled with humorous tales from Rothenburg’s colorful history. The stories are true, but you’re laughing along the way as he gives the complete history of the town -- abridged.

For me, the best story by far was how Rothenburg was spared from destruction during World War II.  Near the end of the war, after the fall of Nuremburg, one of Hitler’s armies retreated to Rothenburg.  Hitler’s orders were to defend it to the death.  American bombers came one night, but because of severe fog, they missed a lot of the intended targets.  Although 40% of Rothenburg was destroyed by those bombs, the old city center and walls were spared. 

The American Army was prepared to shell the town with artillery in order to bring about its defeat.  U.S. Assistant Secretary of War John McCloy heard of this and ordered the commanders in the field not to shell the town but first seek its surrender.  He knew of the medieval architecture and historical significance even though he had never been here.  How?  His mother traveled to Rothenburg in 1914 and brought back an oil painting of the town.  John McCloy grew up seeing this painting and hearing his mother’s stories about how wonderful the town was.  Fortunately, the German General had left, and the Major in charge accepted the American’s terms and left Rothenburg without putting up a fight. McCloy was honored by Rothenburg ob der Tauber in 1952.

Serendipitous?  Divine Providence?  Either way, Rothenburg ob der Tauber was spared a fate many German cities and towns were not.  As a result, the town is preserved in its original form and not some sugary reproduction.  It’s the real deal.