Final Night at the Reichstag

We spent our final hours in Berlin visiting the Reichstag -- the German Parliament building.  Much of this building was destroyed in World War II, but has been rebuilt to its neo-Classical glory - at least on the outside.  Inside is very sleek and modern, which you would never imagine looking from the outside.

The crowning achievement on the Reichstag is the large glass dome.  Designed by British Architect Lord Norman Foster (I’m sure he’s my long lost uncle), the dome is a remarkable architectural achievement with twin spiral ramps that circle the dome all the way to the top.  From there, you can look down directly into the Parliament chambers where the Bundestag meets to pass laws and govern the nation.  It’s been said that if the Bundestag ever forget who they work for -- the people -- they only need to look up to see them.

Inside the dome are thousands of mirrors that reflect sunlight into the Chamber.  The dome is also open at the top to let fresh air in and remove stale air from the building.  Tours are free, but you have to reserve a space in advance.  We were able to get one of the last spots of the day -- 9:30pm.  Touring at night was fantastic, as you get all of these great views of the City at night that you wouldn’t be able to see otherwise.  The dome itself is illuminated, so you can see people walking the spiral ramps, even from the ground.

The Reichstag is a great example of how classic and new architecture are being blended together as Berlin continues to emerge from World War II and the Cold War.  It was a fitting end to our day and our time in Germany.

Alas, our time in Germany has come to an end.  We've thoroughly enjoyed our time here and look forward to paying a return visit in the future.

Ampelmännchen

One remnant of East Germany still thrives in the reunited Berlin of today -- the beloved Ampelmännchen.  These are the “little traffic light men” who tell you whether its safe to cross the street.  These signals were being replaced after reunification, and after a huge uproar and lengthy court battle, they have been kept.  They certainly have more character than saying Walk/Don’t Walk.

Berlin

Our last full day in Germany was spent touring Berlin.  We took a Hop on -- Hop off bus tour which took us around to see all the major sights -- the Brandenburg Gate, the Reichstag,  Victory Column, Tiergarden, Museum Island, and the Berlin Cathedral.  Because Good Friday is a holiday in Germany, there were more people out and about on the street and most of the stores were closed.  However, all of the sights were still open.

Brandenburg Gate

Berlin is currently one big construction zone.  The City had to totally rebuild after World War II, and that rebuilding continues today.  There are construction cranes and detours all up and down the historic city center.  A lot of the construction is being done so buildings have the same historic architecture they’ve always had.    Other buildings have a more modern, contemporary design.  There’s even a Frank Gehry building right on Pariser Platz next to the Brandenburg Gate, although you’d never know it.  From the outside, its form is classic design to blend in with the other buildings.  However, all the action is on the inside where the wavy forms resemble a fish.

The view of the TV tower from our hotel room.
This is the tallest structure in Germany

The fall of the Berlin Wall 25 years ago has also helped fuel a building boom as East and West are reunified.  In some ways, Berlin feels like a very young, newer metropolis.  In a single generation, the City has been transformed, both physically and with a younger, hipper vibrancy that belies the fact that Berlin is over 700 years old.

We were fortunate the weather cooperated, as the original forecast was to rain all day.  Although we didn’t get to experience all Berlin has to offer in such a short visit, we were able to get a flavor for what a great City it is and is becoming.  Now we’ll have to just come back in about 10 years and see how all the current construction turned out.

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe

The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe is Germany’s official Holocaust memorial.  It opened in May 2005 and occupies an entire block in Berlin near the Brandenburg Gate.  The memorial is a field of stelae containing 2,711 concrete blocks of varying heights.  They are unmarked.

Underneath the memorial is an information center with a powerful exhibition documenting and remembering the six million victims.  As you walk through, you see excerpts from letters sent by family members to one another and see the chronology of atrocity as it goes from bad to worse.  The mood is quiet and somber as you reflect on how something like this could have ever happened.

Checkpoint Charlie

We’ve arrived in Berlin, our final stop.  After returning the rental car, we walked two blocks to see Checkpoint Charlie.  Checkpoint Charlie was the border crossing between East and West Berlin during the Cold War before the Berlin Wall came down in 1944.  The checkpoint has been dismantled and what remains is more of a recreation.  At the site, there were numerous wall panels that described the history of the Berlin Wall and Checkpoint Charlie.  This year is the 25th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall.  There's so much to do and see in Berlin, it will be difficult to see all that we want in the short time we're here, but we'll have fun trying.

Nuremberg

After leaving Rothenburg ob der Tauber, we drove about an hour to the City of Nuremberg.  Nuremberg is also a walled city, and much of it had to be rebuilt after World War II.  We stayed right in the heart of the old city, inside the walls along the Konigstrasse, the main pedestrian thoroughfare.  We took a self-guided walking tour along Konigstrasse, seeing the main sights along the way and ending up in Hauptmarkt (Market Square).  The square is filled up every day with vendors selling anything and everything.  Mona and I both bought a bratwurst and strolled through the stalls while we ate.

Most people hear of Nuremberg and think of the Nuremberg trials after World War II.  Nuremberg was actually a center of Nazi activity and Hitler had grand plans to build an enormous Nazi complex.  The old movies you see of Hitler address large crowds of troops was often the rally grounds in Nuremberg.  We visited the Nazi Documentation Center which traces the evolution of the Nazi movement and Hitler’s rise to power.  It’s not actually a World War II or Holocaust museum, but discusses Nuremberg’s role.

The grandstand at the rally grounds in Nuremberg.
The podium area in the middle is where Hitler stood while
giving speeches.

The rally grounds were to contain a whole complex of buildings.  The Congress Hall is the largest building still standing and where the museum is housed.  This is where the Documentation Center is located.  The Zeppelin Field is where Hitler held his largest rallies, many of which were filmed.  The grandstand is still there but is in much decay.  A lot of this area has been repurposed by the City of Nuremberg through the years for park space, athletic fields and the like.  It’s certainly not being preserved as a shrine, but it is an important reminder of German history.

St. Jacob's Church

Our final morning in Rothenburg ob der Tauber was spent touring St. Jacob’s Church.  This is the main church in Rothenburg and is Lutheran.  The church was open for visitors beginning at 9am.  As we approached, we could hear the organ playing and entered just in time to hear the final bars of the Toccata from Widor’s 5th Organ Symphony -- one of the classics of organ literature.  We also heard the organist play a few more pieces.  I assume he was practicing for Easter services this weekend.  We basically had the place to ourselves and our own private organ recital.  A great way to start our day.

The highlight of this church is a large wood carving entitled Altar of the Holy Blood by master carver Tilman Riemenschneider.  It’s 35 feet tall and was carved between 1499 and 1504.  It’s actually in the rear of the church, behind the organ in the loft.  The detail in the carving is incredible.  This portion of the work shows Jesus and the 12 disciples during the Last Supper.

While in Rothenburg, visiting the church is a must.  Organ recital not guaranteed.