Final Greece Thoughts

Unfortunately, our time in Greece has come to a close. This has been a fantastic trip with great weather, beautiful ancient sites and history, and warm and welcoming people.  A few final odds and ends:

• Gyro and souvlaki pitas are fantastic!  Every meal has been great, but I will miss these the most.  I think we ate one every day.

• The plumbing is not so great.  You don't put toilet paper in the toilet, but in the wastebasket next to the toilet.  Our understanding is because the pipes are small and clog easily.  We experienced this same issue when we traveled to Russia.  Not a big deal, but we had to keep reminding ourselves as not every bathroom had a sign.

• The Greeks are very proud of their country.  We were warmly welcomed and everyone seemed happy to provide assistance.

• It was amazing to walk the same sites and experience 3,000 years of history first hand.  While we read about Ancient Greece in school, being able to experience it in person was breathtaking.

• Driving in Greece is an offensive sport.  Stop signs (when there are any) are merely a suggestion as are speed limits.

• We need to plan a return trip.

Ancient Corinth

Temple of Apollo

The last stop on our Ancient History tour was to ancient Corinth.  Those of the Christian faith will recognize this as a place where the Apostle Paul traveled to preach and convert people to Christianity.  Paul lived here over a year and his letters to the Corinthians are some of the most quoted verses from the Bible.

Unlike Epidavros and Mycenae, Corinth was not nearly as crowded with tourists.  While there was a bus in the parking lot, it felt as though we had the place to ourselves.  We probably should have researched a little more before we went as the ancient site wasn't well marked and there weren't any brochures or literature to guide us.  Even so, it still felt remarkable to walk in the footsteps of Paul.

Pop standing in the Bema where Paul was on trial

We did learn that Paul was a tent maker and lived with a couple who were also tent makers.  When he wasn't preaching, he was working in the market alongside everyday Corinthians repairing awnings and such.  Paul was arrested and put on trial for his preachings, but the Roman governor viewed this as a local dispute between Jews and Paul was released.  After leaving Corinth, Paul continued on to Ephesus.  We were able to see the ruins of the Hema, the building where Paul would have been on trial, and perhaps stand in the very spot he did.

It was an interesting juxtaposition to see the Temple of Apollo and realize that this was still in existence and actively used while Paul was in Corinth.  The idea of worshipping Jesus versus Apollo or Athena had to be jarring to the 

Corinthians, yet Paul planted a seed and was able to establish a church here.

Corinth Canal

After leaving ancient Corinth, we made a brief stop at the Corinth Canal.  The canal itself was constructed in the late 1880s so it's not particularly ancient, but the idea of such a canal can be traced as far back as the 7th century B.C.   The canal connects the Gulf of Corinth with the Saronic Gulf in the Aegean Sea and saves a 450 mile journey around the Peloponnese.  However, it's only 70 feet wide and 26 feet deep so most modern ships cannot use it relegating most of the journeys through to tourist boats.  Still, it's an impressive feat to have carved out this canal through the rock.

Mycenae

Lion Gate c. 1300 B.C.

After Epidavros, the other major excursion while we stayed in Nafplio was to the ancient ruins of Mycenae.  Mycenae was a fortress city atop a hill and the capital of multiple city-states through the region.  Dating back to 1600 B.C., the Mycenaeans ruled this area for about 500 years.  Their civilization predates the Acropolis in Athens by a thousand years.

The Lion Gate and all that you pass through to enter the ancient city dates back to circa 1300 B.C.  Although not a sophisticated nor as structurally strong as the Roman arches developed later, this massive entrance has stood for over three thousand years.  

Just down the hill from the fortress is the Treasury of Atreus, a massive beehive-shaped burial chamber built into the side of the hill.  Mycenaean kings were buried in these structures along with swords, jewelry, etc., in similar

Entrance to Treasury of Atreus

fashion to the ancient pharaohs of Egypt.  Ironically, the beehive shape of the structure must have called out to actual bees because there were many swarming around the entrance and inside.  The buzzing echoed throughout the massive chamber and I was just as content to get a quick glimpse inside and then wait for everyone else outside.

Nafplio

Bourtzi Fortress

Nafplio has been a great base from which to explore the Peloponnese.  There's Old Town Nafplio which borders the harbor and then the newer sections of town that spread back out towards the surrounding mountains.  We're staying at the Pension Marianna in the Old Town section.

Because of it's strategic importance through the years, Nafplio has three different fortresses.

Akronafplia Fortress (taken from Palamidi
fortress above)

The Bourtzi fortress sits offshore and guards the harbor.  The Akronafplia is atop the Old Town section of the City and is the oldest of the three fortresses.  The Palamidi fortress was built by the Venetians in the early 1700s and sits on a hill above the Akronafplia.  Our hotel sits adjacent to the Akronafplia fortress -- in fact, we walk through a part of the outer wall in order to access our hotel.

Palamidi Fortress

The town itself exudes a certain charm and we're enjoying soaking it up and strolling the narrow lanes and along the waterfront.  We've already been to Epidavros and we'll also be visiting the ancient archaeological site of Mycenae.  This has been a very relaxing stop as we begin to wind down the second half of our trip.

Looking out the window of our hotel room

The view from our room

The Early Bird Gets the Worm!!

The theater from ground level

We've left Olympia and are now in the town of Nafplio, a seaport town on the Argolic Gulf which is part of the Aegean Sea.   This will be our base for the next two days.  Our first excursion was to the ancient site of Epidavros, which is famed for its acoustically marvelous amphitheater.

We were out the door at 7:15am for the 30 minute drive to Epidavros in order to be there when they opened at 8:00am.  I wanted to be there with as few people as possible in order to experience the famed acoustics.  Our efforts paid off as not only were we the first people through the gates, we were the only ones there for the first 30 minutes.

View from the top row

The theater was built circa 300 B.C. and can seat up to 15,000 people.  During the summer months, it is still used for outdoor theater productions, but we're here too early in the year to catch a play.  What we could do though is test the acoustics, and it was a remarkable experience.  You can stand in the middle of the "stage" area (really just a circle that is surrounded by the first row of seats) and speak in a normal voice.  Even those sitting in the last row at the top of the theater can hear you as if you were sitting right next to them.  We took a brief video with our phone, and while it's not as good as being there in person, it gives you a good idea of how great the acoustics are.

By 8:30am, the first of three tour buses pulled in with gaggles of tourists.  While I hope they could experience the marvelous acoustics as we did, I can't imagine they did because it became too noisy too fast.  Getting up early definitely paid off as they could not have had nearly the appreciation that we did.

Ancient Olympia

Altar and Temple of Hera

We experienced a taste of the modern Olympics in Athens when we visited the Panathenaic Stadium.  Today, we visited Ancient Olympia where the Olympics were first held circa 776 B.C. and continued for over a thousand years to 393 A.D.  These quadrennial athletic contests were held to honor and worship Zeus, king of the gods.

Ancient Stadium

Our journey to Olympia took us through the mountains and along the Gulf of Corinth, traveling over the gulf across the modern bridge built just a decade ago.  We stopped briefly along the way in a small town whose English name is Lemon Canyon so Mom could touch the water and collect a rock to take home.

On the starting line

Olympia is located on the large peninsula of Greece known as the Peloponnese. We toured the archaeological site and saw the ruins of the Temple of Zeus and the gymnasium where the athletes trained.  Our two favorite parts of the site were the stadium, where the original marble starting and finish lines still adorn the track, and the Temple and Altar of Hera, where the flame is lit each Olympic year to travel to Athens and then on to the host country.

Temple of Zeus

Lots of families, young and old, took their place on the starting line and sprinted the length of the stadium.  Although we didn't witness any Olympic-caliber times, it was still amazing to to be able to run sprints in the same place as thousands of athletes have for three millennia.

Delphi

Temple of Apollo seen from the amphitheater above

On Monday morning we bid adieu to Athens after three wonderful days soaking up its history.  We left our apartment bright and early to travel back to the airport and pick up our rental car.  After experiencing Athens traffic and narrow streets, I'm glad we are picking up our car outside of the city.

I've dubbed this trip the Ancient History Tour as our itinerary is filled with visits to historical sites and ruins.  We won't have time to visit any of the islands.  We'll have to reserve that for a return trip.  After about 2 hours of driving, we've reached our first destination -- Delphi.

5th Century B.C. Stadium

Delphi was known throughout the world as the home of the Oracle of Delphi, a prophetess who was the mouthpiece of Apollo on earth.  Pilgrims would travel from all over to seek her advice.  During this period, Delphi was considered to be the center of the world and one of its sacred sites.  Our first stop was the archaeological site to walk the Sacred Way and see the Temple of Apollo.  Ancient Delphi was a place of worship centered on the Temple of Apollo.  The temple site is surrounded by the remains of grand monuments that were paid for and built by grateful pilgrims.

Charioteer circa 480 B.C.

The ancient site and the nearby modern town are located in the side of Mount Parnassus.  Seeing the site requires a nice uphill hike from the road.  For me, one of the most interesting aspects was the ancient stadium built in the 5th century B.C.  It's at the highest point of the site (up a very steep trail) and hosted the Pythian Games, second in importance only to the Olympics.  It's remarkably well preserved, so much so that it could probably host athletic competitions with a minimal amount of renovation.  Not bad for a 2,500 year-old stadium.  The archaeological
museum houses many of the original artifacts from the ancient site, many of which date back 2000 years or more.  Their prized possession with a room unto itself is a bronze charioteer circa 480 B.C.  It is believed that a great earthquake some 100 years later buried the statue in debris, helping to protect it from the elements.

Sanctuary of Athena Pronea -- Athena was also worshipped
at Delphi along with Apollo

The modern town of Delphi is defined by two narrow, parallel streets.  We spent the night here and our hotel provided great views of the valley, lined with groves of olive trees all the way to the Gulf of Corinth.  Delphi is a popular day trip, especially from Athens, so there were lots of tour buses when we arrived.  However, by about 3:00 pm, they were on their way back to the City and it felt like we had the town to ourselves.  Another great day soaking up history and enjoying the hospitality of our Greek hosts.

The view from our hotel balcony -- Hotel Fedriades

Final Day in Athens

Temple of Olympian Zeus

Our final afternoon in Athens was spent wandering the streets of the old Plaka and Anafiotika neighborhoods near the Acropolis and seeing some of the other historic monuments and ruins.  Because of the holiday, we couldn't walk the sites, but I was able to take pictures.  We also wandered the streets of the Monastiraki neighborhood including its several streets of flea market activity.  We grabbed a couple of souvlaki pitas at the take out window and ate while we strolled the narrow streets and alleyways.

Hadrian's Gate

At the end of the day, we climbed both Mars Hill and Filopappou Hill in order to get better views of the Acropolis.  Mars Hill is where the Apostle Paul preached to the masses in Athens centuries ago, but Filopappou Hill has the best view.  It was very windy while we were at the summit, but it we didn't mind as the view was priceless.

The View from Filapappou Hill

I Love a Parade

Today is March 25 which means it's Greek Independence Day.  It also happens to be Sunday so between cultural sites and shops, there are a lot of closures today.  The nice consolation prize is that we get to experience Athens like the locals and enjoy the Independence Day parade.  The Greeks are understandably proud of their heritage and won their independence from the Ottoman Empire in 1829.  Independence Day is celebrated on March 25 because on that day in 1821, Bishop Germanos of Patras raised the flag of revolution inspiring the Greeks to rise up and proclaim their independence from the Turks.

Every year on March 25, parades are held throughout Greece commemorating Greek independence, including the main parade in Athens that features the Greek Armed Forces.  We didn't get out quite as early as we thought, but we made it time to catch the parade from the starting point.  A friend from work who is Greek gave me a scarf with the flag and logo of the national soccer team.  We cheered and celebrated like the locals, but considering my blond hair and fair complexion, I don't think I was mistaken for Greek.  We saw many military units marching in precision and had fighter jets and helicopters fly in formation very low in the sky above us.

Metropolitan Cathedral of the Annunciation

Today is also the Feast of the Annunciation in the Greek Orthodox Church which is also celebrated on March 25.  This marks the day that the Angel Gabriel told the Virgin Mary that she would conceive and become the mother of Jesus.  For us Methodists, today is Palm Sunday and we found the Anglican Church in Athens and picked up palm branches although we missed the service.

After the parade, we walked up to the Parliament and watched the changing of the guard.  A special unit of the Hellenic army known as the Evzones are in traditional military dress and guard the Monument of the Unknown Soldier in front of the Parliament building.  They have a unique style of marching which is somewhat in slow motion to go with their unique uniform.

Changing of the Guard

We could tell this was a day of great pride for the Greeks. Children were dressed up in traditional outfits and many people were out walking the streets and lining the parade route.  Pop and I were both wearing our blue shirts which made us feel like we were part of the big family celebration, if only for a moment.

Athens and the Olympics

The modern Olympics were first held in Athens in 1896 and the city hosted again in 2004.  We didn't make it to the 2004 Olympic facilities, but we made sure to stop and visit the Panathenaic Stadium.  This is the only stadium in the world made entirely of marble and it hosted several of the events during the the 1896 Games.  The stadium is located within the historic center of Athens and provides a nice view of the back side of the Parthenon and Acropolis.  Today it hosts the finish line of the annual Athens marathon.  From 7:30am to 9:00am each day, locals are allowed to jog around its track.  Although we didn't take advantage of the jogging, we did wander around and admire all of the gleaming white marble that surrounded us.

1984 Los Angeles Games

One of the cooler aspects of the stadium is the small museum that you access through a stone tunnel carved out under the marble seating areas.  Within the museum are the torches that have been used in most of the prior Olympic games.  Each Olympic year the flame starts its journey from this stadium to the host country.

View of the Acropolis from the Stadium

Acropolis and the Parthenon

East side of the Parthenon

If there's a single iconic symbol of Athens, it's the Parthenon that sits atop the Acropolis in the middle of the oldest part of the central city.  Construction began in 447 B.C., some 2500 years ago and before the time of Christ.  The Parthenon was actually built as a temple to the Goddess Athena whom the people of Athens considered their patron and for whom the city is named.

There's only one way to get to the top of the Acropolis and that is to walk uphill.  Our apartment was not far from the main entrance so we set out early and walked up a cobblestone walkway to the entrance.  From there it became a lot steeper as we traversed multiple sets of steps making our way to the top.

Odeon of Herodes Atticus

Our first view was that of the Odeon of Herodes Atticus.  What today looks like an outdoor amphitheater was actually an enclosed structure erected in 161 A.D.  An Odeon is a theater use for music concerts -- Ode is the Greek word for song.  This is still used today for the occasional musical performance.  There was also an outdoor amphitheater used for plays--the Theatre of Dionysus-- but it is very much in ruins and not suitable for use.

Climbing the steep steps of the Propylaea

We climbed numerous steps through the main entrance called the Propylaea, reaching the summit of the Acropolis.  Here we were greeted with our first full-on view of the Parthenon.  Reconstruction and stabilization of the Parthenon has been occurring for many years, and much of the west side its still shrouded in scaffolding.  Acropolis means "high city," and you will find other Greek cities with their own acropolis.  The top of the Acropolis is very rocky -- great for stability and constructing these large temples, but very uneven for walking.  Many of the rocks and marble have been worn smooth by wind, rain, and time, so we had to be careful as there were slick spots even on a beautiful sunny day.

Erectheion

Also on the Acropolis is the Erectheion, a temple perhaps even more prestigious than the Parthenon.  It was built on the site where the Mycenaeans had built a palace for their king.  The replica Caryatids help support the roof of the porch.  This temple was dedicated to both Poseidon and Athena, each side reserved for worshipping one or the other.  The other major

Caryatids

structure atop the Acropolis is the Temple to Athena Nike.  It was designed by one of the architects of the Parthenon and dedicated to Athena's victory over Poseidon and for bringing victory over the Persians in 479 B.C., hoping it would ensure other victories.

Temple of Athena Nike

It was breathtaking and awe-inspiring to see 2,500 years of history before our eyes.  Even though a significant portion is in ruins, what

remains is simply an incredible testament to the ability and advancement of the Greeks to construct such masterful structures that have withstood the test of time.

Acropolis Museum

We've hit the ground running on our first day in Athens.  After our arrival this afternoon and briefly settling into our apartment, we walked down the street and to the Acropolis Museum.  The museum is a strikingly modern building set amidst the historic center of Athens at the foot of the Acropolis itself.  The museum opened in 2009 and houses many of the original artifacts from the Acropolis.

For the most part, photography is not allowed inside the museum, although there are a couple of places they allow you to take photos without flash.  One of the best relics are the Caryatids from the Erectheion.  Five of the six original lady-columns that once supported the roof of the Erectheion are on display.  Each of them have different appearances right down to the braids in their hair.  The ones we will see on the Acropolis are replicas.

The museum itself sits atop an active archaeological site that is still being examined and excavated.  Many of the relics inside the museum date to 400-500 B.C., and it's amazing to see both the sophistication of the sculpture and pottery as well as their excellent condition considering most are at least 2,500 years old

An added bonus for us is being able to visit on a Friday.  Each Friday night, the museum stays open until 10:00pm and features jazz music in the restaurant.  We enjoyed great food and music while enjoying sweeping views of the Acropolis and Parthenon lit up in the dark evening sky

A great beginning to our trip.  Tomorrow, it's up bright and early to hike up to the Acropolis and see it up close and personal.

Greece is the Word

The Parthenon as seen from our apartment balcony.

Hello from Athens!!!  We've arrived safely for our spring break tour of Greece, focusing on Athens and the Peloponnese.  I'm dubbing this the ancient history tour as we will be seeing lots of historical sites and ruins as we trace history back 2,500 years.  We're staying in an apartment while in Athens and it comes with a really great view -- one that I wouldn't mind having on a daily basis.  Let the fun begin!